Sunday, March 28, 2010

Did We Conquer?

The Dutchman Loop. There are different routes possible using the name Dutchman Loop. Some do a shorter loop taking Bluff Springs to Terrapin and back. We opted for the longest trail, as highlighted on the map (click on map to enlarge).  It was about 18 miles total distance and an estimated cumulative elevation of 4,500 ft. (see video at end of blog for complete summary-click 720P in lower right for best video).

Four years ago we attempted this loop trail, but several things went wrong. This time, we wanted to conquer the trail. Did we?

Let's evaluate:

Description 2006 2010
Water Ran out just over halfway Returned home with just over 1L remaining
Electrolytes What's that? Several powdered drinks, mixed & enjoyed at breaks
Dog Pup, 35 lbs.
Ended up carrying
Dog, 50 lbs. Stayed at home
Food Ran out Good variety, plenty left.
Breaks Long hike, kept pushing Every two hours at least 15 min. Had 'blanket' so we could lay down, rest
Directions Wrong turn, got on undeveloped trail (lost) Planned route w/ times, watched trail carefully. Notified people of times and plan for backup
Completion Almost lost sunlight.
No flashlight
Started early with headlamps, done before sunset

Papa and I feel pretty good that we conquered, however, it certainly isn't the ultimate conquest. Today, the day after the hike, we are tired and can feel the effect the mountains had on us. The mountains, the desert are still forces to be respected.

What we've learned:
  • always take more water than you think you'll need (about .5L for every 2-3miles)
  • for longer hikes, have powdered drink mixes to replace electrolytes
  • pack an all-weather light weight blanket. Great way to lay out an relax & provide rain protection and/or warmth, if needed
  • bring extra pair of socks. We changed socks about 2/3 of the way through. Big help for feet!
  • pack a variety of foods: protein, carbs, salty, sugar.
  • plan the hike before leaving. Know waypoints and determine approximate times to reach. Provides motivation and gives someone at home a reference point if help is needed.
Now the trip (with our best time/distance estimates):
5:45am  At trailhead. This was about 45 minutes later than planned but still early. The sun was just starting to break the solid darkness yet we needed our headlamps to begin.

7:00am  2.2 miles   Coffee Flat Trail junction. This is one of our favorite day hikes.  It's a quick in/out trail that is relatively easy and, especially in the spring, is beautiful with wildflowers and lots of mountains and rock formations. There is a great little sitting area at the junction perfect for a picnic before heading back...or in our case continuing.

8:15am   3.6 miles  Whiskey Springs Trail junction. About 1/4 of the trip so good place to take a 10-15 min break. There are approximately 10 switchbacks to reach this point so there is a grade. It's not real steep, but it's constant and it seems like it takes a long time to get to the trailhead. From here you'll descend into the back country/LaBarge Canyon.

9:15am   4.8 miles  Bluff Springs. We continued through this junction on our way to the next one.

10:40am 6.0 miles  Red Tanks Trail.  We stopped just past the trail junction and had lunch next to a little stream. It was a very relaxing spot. A group we met said that they were at 8 miles at this point. Our GPS app on the iPhone was spotty so we don't have definite mileage.

11:35am  7.3miles  Peter's Trail. Definitely getting back into the wilderness area. Beautiful mountains and lots of water flowing. When we did this hike four years ago, it was dry, completely dry. This year we crossed streams and heard water running several times during the hike.

12:30pm  8.8miles Cavalry Trail. We're halfway. The mountains are beautiful with brightly colored layers of rock...yellows, pinks, greens, salmon and more. Haven't seen this coloring anywhere else. (pictures and video do not do it justice)

12:50pm  9.6miles  Bull Pass Trail. We noted but we kept moving.

1:20pm   10.4 miles  Terrapin Trail. This is where we made our near-fatal mistake four years ago. The trail guide we'd printed from trails.com said to "keep left" at this point.  Left meant going onto Terrapin Trail. Terrapin is not maintained. In areas you can loose the trail completely.  Somehow we did it and made it back to our car, but both Papa and I agree that Terrapin was our downfall. This time we laughed at Terrapin and continued on Dutchman. What a blessing. Dutchman is a breathtakingly beautiful trail!

2:25pm   11.4 miles  Peralta Canyon Trail. We're so thankful that we did this loop again. We feel much better and more confident that we can conquer the trail. We are, however, starting the longest and steepest grade of the entire loop. We stopped for a good 15 minute break (changed our socks and let the feet be free of shoes for a bit) and then started the long ascent to Freemont Saddle passing Weaver's Needle on the west side.

5:30pm   15.6 miles   Freemont Saddle. We did it.  We're tired, our feet hurt. Our pace slowed as we approached the saddle but we didn't stop. This is an accomplishment. Rhythmic breathing and rest steps provided the balance so we could make it up the approximate 10% grade.  At Freemont we took our last break to rest and hydrate before the 2.3 mile descent on Peralta Trail.

6:30pm   17.9 miles  The Trailhead.  Success.  We made it to the car before the sun was down. We were tired but that's expected.  We still had food and water.

Remember, this isn't recommended as a day hike; this is a 2-3 day backpacking trip.

This is, however, good training for the Canyon.  The first day at the Canyon on the North Kaibab trail, we will go about 17 miles (with side trip to Ribbon Falls) and about 6,000 feet down.  The trip out on Bright Angel Trail will be about 8 miles and 4,400 ft. approximately. We will need to be ready.

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