Adventure 2010 #3 of 3

Our Grand Canyon R2R Adventure had been a little challenging the first couple days yet very enjoyable.  We both had the 'hiker hobble' and both received a souvenir toe blister, but those weren't negatively impacting us at all. Even the stiff legs weren't a big issue once we got moving for awhile.

We had accomplished the easy part, though. Now we had to get out of the Canyon hopefully before the heat of the day. We had hiked down to 3 Mile Resthouse and out a couple years before. We vividly remember the struggle, especially in the heat on a June afternoon. We wanted to be out by noon if possible, but realized that it could take until 2 p.m.

DAY FIVE
We were the first people into the canteen for early morning breakfast.  We focused on eggs and juice, avoiding the coffee (few bathroom stops on the way up). We picked up our sack lunches, filled the Camelpak and took off shortly after 5:30am.

The day before we crossed the black suspension bridge over the Colorado River to the South Kaibab Trail during our day hike. Today we crossed the silver suspension bridge to the River Trail which connects to the Bright Angel Trail. After awhile, Papa and I took a few minutes to stop and look back. What a beautiful sight with the sunrise hitting the higher points along the top of the Canyon, the colorful layers of rocks, the Colorado River and the silver suspension bridge.

There were several places on the Bright Angel where we used stepping stones to cross the flowing Pipe Creek. We crisscrossed this stream for quite awhile. We saw several deer in the early morning hours including two that were walking down the trail towards us. Fortunately they were very gracious and quickly yielded the trail to us.  Thank you.

The first challenge was about an hour and half into the hike: Devil's Corkscrew. The darker Vishnu Schist rock is more visible in this area and provided the first clue that we had arrived at DC.  The grade increased and the switchbacks, although they lessen the grade, made us feel as if we were retracing our steps rather than making significant progress.  It was satisfying to look back and finally see the progress when we reached the top, though!

From Devil's Corkscrew, the scenery was wonderful to Indian Garden. The canyon narrowed a bit as we went through the limestone cliff area. I read that an Indian tribe once lived in these cliffs, using Pipe Creek as a water source, hunting the deer and other animals and growing corn, squash, etc. This was an oasis area in the Canyon.

Indian Garden marked the halfway point in distance but not in time. Up to Indian Garden the hike is relatively easy; there is shade, the scenery is beautiful and the soothing sound of the creek provided mental refreshment. Now it changes; no shade, no stream, steeper grade.

We were making good time getting to IG, resting, and starting out again before 8 a.m.  (No pictures from IG but the second video, below, of the hike starts at IG)

Between IG and 3 Mile Resthouse, we encountered the second challenging switchback, Jacob's Ladder. This one is more challenging, I believe, because it is a combination of steps plus switchback. Steps take more work than a slopping grade and switchbacks, as mentioned, made us feel as if we were working but not making a lot of progress. Getting through Jacob's Ladder and reaching 3 Mile Resthouse to rest in the shade was a fantastic break. It was even better since we missed two mule trains (their dust and aroma) as they passed by during our break.

Left:  Second Tunnel between 3 Mile and 1.5 Mile Resthouses. First Tunnel is near the Rim. Good landmarks for the hike.

Right: View from the South Rim. Click to enlarge picture. Arrows point to 1.5 and 3 Mile Resthouses. Yup, it's as steep of a climb as it looks!

From here on out the pictures and video get fewer as we focused on getting out rather than documentation. We've done this part of the hike before and remember it very well.  No matter how in shape you are, how prepared, the last three miles on Bright Angel Trail will challenge your abilities, mentally and physically.  The grade is steep. The shade is sparse. It's simply putting one foot in front of the other and pushing on.

This formation (center of picture, left) is the Battleship, or Battleship Iowa. This is one of the first names we learned during early visits to the Canyon. It's also a very helpful landmark for us while hiking.  It's visible from 3 Mile Resthouse but it's 'up' a long ways.  Here, at 1.5 Mile Resthouse it's nearly 'even' with us. At the South Rim, we are high above it.

Papa and I have learned not to look up the trail to see how far to the rim, it's disheartening.  Having the Battleship gives us a benchmark of how far we have to go without facing the stark reality of looking up. Looking back down the trail at how far we've come provides encouragement.

We reached the South Rim a few minutes after noon, about 6.5 hours to hike out from Phantom Ranch.  We enjoyed a celebratory ice cream cone along the rim and then had hours to wait before we could retrieve our duffle from the livery barn and check into our room at El Tavor.

Once in El Tavor, we felt the Canyon as we carried our bags up to the second floor room. Nana's hiking shoes, covered in the various colors and layers of dust from the Canyon, were permanently retired. We couldn't decide who took the longer shower as we attempted to rid our bodies of the dust and soothe the tired muscles.

The hostess at the dining room was gracious to move our 7pm reservation to 5:15pm so we could get an early dinner and early bedtime. Although the wine to toast our accomplishment was deserved, we should have drank even more glasses of water than the several we did, keeping our server very busy refilling our glasses. Nana was up in the middle of the night searching the hotel for bottled water, feeling the affects of a little dehydration.

Our vacation wasn't over. During the next few days we'd explore the South Rim, Cedar Breaks, Zion, Vegas (yes, it was a diverse vacation) and visit our grandson and his parents. It was as nearly a perfect vacation as we could have experienced. We accomplished our goal of hiking rim-to-rim.

Next week we'll review our preparations and what we would have done differently. We will also announce our next adventure.

Pictures from the R2R hike:  click here
Video up Bright Angel Trail:  Part One (PR to IG) and Part Two (IG to Rim)
Remember to change to 720P resolution in the lower right for better quality.